Jigsaw Blade Keeps Breaking? Here's Why and How to Stop It

You're cutting along nicely and snap - another jigsaw blade gone. If this keeps happening, something's wrong with your technique, your blade choice, or your setup. Let's figure out which.

You're Pushing Too Hard

This is the number one blade killer. Jigsaws cut on the pull stroke (blade moves up through the material), not when you push them forward. If you're forcing the saw through the cut, you're bending the blade sideways and putting stress on it that it's not designed for.

Let the saw do the work. You should be guiding it, not forcing it. If you're having to push hard, either the blade is blunt or it's wrong for the material.

Wrong Blade for the Material

Using a fine metal-cutting blade in thick timber? It'll snap because it can't clear chips fast enough. Using a coarse wood blade in thin sheet metal? It'll grab and snap.

Match your blade to the job:

• Wood: 6-10 TPI (teeth per inch), larger teeth
• Metal: 18-24 TPI, fine teeth
• Plastics: Medium TPI, avoid too fast or teeth melt the material
• Thick material: Fewer, bigger teeth
• Thin material: More, finer teeth

Decent blade sets from our accessories range come with different blades for different materials. Using the right one makes a massive difference.

The Orbital Action Is Wrong

Most jigsaws have orbital settings (usually 0-3 or 0-4). Higher orbital action means the blade swings forward as well as up and down, making cuts faster but more aggressive.

High orbital action in metal or hardwood puts huge stress on the blade. Turn it down to 0 or 1 for tough materials. Save the high settings for rough cuts in softwood where speed matters more than blade life.

Blade Not Seated Properly

If the blade isn't fully clicked into the chuck, it won't be held straight. A wobbly blade is a breaking blade.

Take the blade out and reinsert it properly. You should feel it click home. Give it a tug to make sure it's locked in. Some chucks wear out over time and stop holding blades securely - if yours is old and well-used, this might be the problem.

Cutting Too Tight a Curve

Jigsaw blades can do curves, but they have limits. Try to turn too sharply and the blade binds in the cut, bends sideways, and snaps.

For tight curves, use a narrower blade (they're sold as scroll-cutting blades). For really tight corners, drill a relief hole and approach from a different angle rather than trying to turn 90 degrees mid-cut.

Material Closing Up on the Blade

When you cut sheet material, the kerf (the gap created by the cut) can close up behind the blade, pinching it. This puts side pressure on the blade and can snap it.

Solution: Support both sides of the cut so the material doesn't sag and close the kerf. For long cuts in plywood or MDF, have someone hold the offcut or use supports underneath.

Blunt Blade

A dull blade cuts slowly and needs more pressure to get through. More pressure means more stress, more heat, more chance of snapping.

Blades are cheap. If you're having to push hard, fit a fresh one. A new blade cuts faster, cleaner, and safer than a worn one you're nursing along.

Speed Too High

Faster isn't always better. In metal especially, high speed generates heat that softens the blade teeth and causes breakage.

• Wood: High speed fine
• Metal: Low to medium speed
• Plastics: Medium speed (too fast melts, too slow grabs)

Check the Saw Itself

If blades keep breaking and you've ruled out the above, check the jigsaw:

• Is the blade holder worn or damaged?
• Is there play in the mechanism?
• Does the blade run true or wobble?

A knackered jigsaw will eat blades no matter what you do. Quality jigsaws from DeWalt and Makita hold blades properly and run true, which means fewer broken blades and cleaner cuts.