How to Replace Floorboards: Repair and Access Guide

Floorboards need replacing when they're rotten, damaged, or you're accessing services underneath. Here's how to do it without wrecking the surrounding floor.

Removing Damaged Boards

If removing a whole board:

1. Check for cables and pipes beneath before cutting
2. Punch existing nails through or lever them out
3. Work along the board, lifting progressively
4. Use a pry bar and protective block against adjacent boards

If removing a section (for access):

1. Mark cut lines over the centre of joists
2. Set circular saw depth just over board thickness
3. Cut along the joist centres
4. Lever out the section

Cutting between joists leaves nothing to fix the new section to. Always cut over joists.

Dealing with T&G Boards

Tongue and groove boards lock together. To remove one:

1. Cut the tongue off the first board using a circular saw set to just cut the tongue depth
2. Or use a multi-tool to cut the tongue
3. First board then lifts out
4. Subsequent boards slide apart

Finding Replacement Boards

Matching old floorboards can be tricky:

• Old boards may be imperial sizes (not metric)
• Thickness varies in old houses
• Wood type matters for appearance if leaving exposed

Options:

• Reclaimed boards to match period property
• New boards machined to match profile
• Standard boards if floor will be covered

If the floor's being carpeted, exact matching doesn't matter. If it's being sanded and finished, get the closest match you can.

Fitting New Boards

Full-length boards:

1. Cut to length, leaving small gap for expansion
2. If T&G, knock into position with mallet and block
3. Nail or screw into each joist
4. Punch nail heads below surface

Section replacements:

1. Cut new board to fit, ends centred on joists
2. Add supporting noggins if joints don't land on joists
3. Fix to joists and any noggins

Fixing Methods

Nails: Traditional, quick, but can squeak if boards move

Screws: Hold better, easier to remove later, no squeaking

For floorboards that might need lifting again (access panels), use screws and don't plug the holes.

Dealing with Squeaks

New boards shouldn't squeak if properly fixed. If existing boards squeak:

• Add screws through into joists
• Talcum powder between boards (temporary fix)
• Fix from below with blocks or brackets if accessible

Different Floor Constructions

Suspended timber floor:

• Boards on joists, void below
• Watch for cables and pipes in the void
• Ventilation is important - don't block airbricks

Floating floor:

• Boards on battens on concrete
• Less void space
• Insulation may be present

Access Hatches

If you're creating access to services:

• Cut to a sensible size (big enough to work through)
• Cut over joists so the hatch has support
• Use screws so it can be removed again
• Consider flush ring pulls if in main rooms

Tools Needed

• Circular saw with depth adjustment
• Multi-tool for detail cuts
• Pry bar and hammer
• Drill/driver for screws
• Nail punch if using nails
• Tape measure and pencil

Common Mistakes

• Cutting through cables (always check first)
• Cutting between joists (nothing to fix to)
• Using boards that are too thick or thin
• Not allowing expansion gaps
• Over-driving screws and splitting boards