Best Combi Drill for Electricians: What Actually Matters

You're an electrician looking for a combi drill that'll handle everything from drilling through joists to tapping into masonry for back boxes. You don't need a monster SDS for occasional hole - you need something that does the everyday stuff brilliantly. Here's what actually matters.

What Electricians Actually Use Drills For

Let's be honest about the work:

• Drilling through timber studs and joists - all day, every day
• The occasional masonry hole for clips or back boxes
• Driving screws into consumer units, trunking, accessories
• Drilling metal tray and enclosures

You're not core drilling concrete or mixing plaster. You need a mid-range combi that's light enough to use overhead and powerful enough to handle 25mm holes through joists without bogging down.

Why Brushless Matters for Your Work

Brushless motors aren't just marketing hype. For an electrician working off batteries all day, they mean:

• More holes per charge (typically 30-50% more)
• Less heat, which means longer motor life
• Better power delivery when the battery's getting low

The DeWalt DCD796 brushless combi is the one I see most sparkies carrying. Compact enough for first fix in tight spots, enough grunt for 65mm holes through multiple joists.

Weight and Size - More Important Than Max Torque

That 135Nm monster drill might look impressive on paper, but you're not driving coach bolts into oak. You're working overhead in ceiling voids, reaching into corners, using it one-handed while you hold a cable with the other.

For electrical work, anything under 1.8kg (bare tool) is manageable for extended use. The compact versions from DeWalt, Makita and Milwaukee are all around this weight. The full-size versions are pushing 2.2kg+ and you'll feel it by lunchtime.

Clutch Settings - Actually Use Them

That numbered ring on your drill isn't decoration. For driving screws into plastic back boxes or trunking, set it low (around 8-10) so you don't crack anything or overdrive. For timber, mid-range. Only use the drill symbol for actual drilling.

A drill with 20+ clutch settings gives you more precision. Useful when you're screwing into different materials all day.

The Chuck Quality Question

A cheap drill with a sloppy chuck is a nightmare with small bits. If your 3mm bit wobbles, your holes won't be where you want them and the bit's more likely to snap.

Metal chucks with proper precision tend to come on the mid-range and up drills. The Makita DHP486 has a particularly good chuck that holds small bits true.

What About SDS?

For the occasional 6mm hole in brick for a clip, your combi will handle it fine. For cutting chases or putting lots of holes in concrete, yes you'll want an SDS - but that's a second tool, not a replacement for your combi.

If you're doing a lot of masonry work, a compact SDS like the DeWalt DCH273 makes sense as an addition. But for pure electrical work, a good combi handles 90% of what you need.

My Recommendation

For a sparky's main drill, you want:

• Brushless motor (DCD796, DHP486, or similar)
• Compact body under 1.8kg
• 18V platform matching your other tools
• Metal chuck with good bit grip
• At least two batteries (you'll rotate through them)

Spend the money on a proper mid-range drill and it'll last years. The budget options lack the precision and durability for daily trade use.